> The ND Game and Fish Dept stocked Spiritwood Lake, ND with 180K European zander fry and 1,050 fingerlings in ’89 after failed attempts in ’87 and ’88. The state scrapped the program in ’90 because of concerns from neighboring states MN, SD, MT and the province of MB.
Still a very small population in there, but they ARE reproducing successfully. Here’s a couple more that were caught this spring.
Don’t worry, looks like they redeemed themselves…. Hunter joined the 30″ club testing a PK Lures prototype — trolling for fish suspended 14-20′ down over 45′:
Parade of pigs!!
The walleye season is closed in lots of places across the walleye world, but there’s still plenty of fish to be caught if you’re willing to bundle up and put a few (hundred?) miles behind the windshield….
Someone tell Austin Zimmerman (@azimmerman55) it’s okay to smile when you break your PB twice in one night…lol. Brought both of ’em to the bank with a “gold” #12 Rapala Husky Jerk. Congrats dude!
Casey Doran (@caseyp_doran) found himself a warmwater pocket and stuck this Green Bay slaunch working a “chartreuse shad” color #6 Rapala Rippin’ Rap along a break in 8′. Crazy how a couple-degree water temp change can turn ’em on (or off) like a light switch:
Another spring giant that scarfed up a Rapala Rippin’ Rap — a bait that needs to be added to your early-spring arsenal [hammer emoji]. This one caught by Matthew Zingler (@matthewzingler) and went a hefty 11.4 lbs. Great shot:
Justin Best got himself a 32″ Green bay teener (13.3 lbs!) on a “parakeet” color Northland Whistler Jig! Looks cold…but no doubt worth it:
Cullen Gress plucked this slob from the Missouri River, ND pitching shallows with a “firetiger” Berkley Ripple Shad on a 3/8-oz jig:
According to Wayne Schaefer, a researcher from the University of WI:
> “The blue walleye of northern CAN are just a color variation of a regular walleye.”
Not the same thing as the “blue pike” subspecies that became extinct from Lake Erie by the mid-1950s.
> “The color…to my surprise…was found in the mucous of the fish — not in the scales. The mucous that creates the blue color — called Sandercyanin — is a form of protection for the fish [from ultraviolet radiation].”
> “Harsh is a matter-of-fact Minnesotan with a savvy and nuanced ability to maneuver through both the political business side of the sport fishing and boating industry, and to be able to function as one of the most skilled anglers that pro walleye fishing has produced.”
I’ve got a 12′ Talon on the back of my rig. Between that and the Spot-Lock my Minn Kota Ultrex, only reason I ever put an anchor in my boat is if the regs (on certain waters) require me to. Spendy stuff, but honestly can’t imagine a fishin’ life without either of ’em now.
It’s not just another fishing show…it’s Another Fishing Show lol. Still trying to figure out how they only have 2K subscribers…show ’em some love if fishing podcasts and YouTube episodes are your thing.
> The Charge [system] operates as a bi-directional marine battery charging and power-management built to divert power around to electronics where it’s needed most, while keeping batteries continually charged and monitored.
From the looks of things spring is (finally) here to stay in walleye country. As tempting as it is to just jump in the boat and hit the closest open water, running through your rig beforehand can save you money and headaches.
This oldie-but-goodie Wired2Fish write-up has a pile of helpful info if you’re wondering where to start. Few excerpts below:
> It is very important to make sure that properly charged batteries have terminals covered and corrosion free — a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil can keep most deposits from forming. A small wire brush can be used to clean terminals and connections.
> …keep batteries filled but not overfilled…you can use battery acid that you can get at most automotive stores or as second option distilled water. NEVER use tap water in your batteries. It can shorten the battery life and may not provide a quality charge.
> Remove the prop now and again to check for line on the shaft of the motor.
> We also lubricate and protect the foot, spring and head of the trolling motor after each trip. We use Cover-All Protectant for the non-moving parts and WD-40 for those that move and are outside the unit.
Livewells and sump
> Spring is a great time to wipe and vacuum out livewells and the sump area of the boat. Get all the loose particles from screens and from under bilge/livewell pumps.
> Rinse sump area with a light soap and flush. Never use soap in the livewell for obvious reasons — several companies have tank cleaners that don’t harm fish but will remove grime and residue.
> It’s always good to start with a ‘fresh’ tank of gas each year but using Stabil or Sea Foam in old gas will make sure moisture is eliminated.
> …inspect your prop for dings or dents — most of the time these can be fixed by local prop repair guys for a fraction of the price of a new prop.
Instagram hiding “like” counts in leaked design prototype. Not a huge deal unless you’re someone who’s just fishing for “likes” lol….
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