Timing
Bluegills are picky when a lake first caps. Hoyer says, “they’re crabby” and “it takes a week-ish for them to adjust to it.” When fish start actively feeding again, time of day is crucial:
> “Big bluegills will shut off completely for long stretches – you have to hit the feeding windows, which are usually at first light and then dusk into nightfall.”
Says you can NOT rule out a lake for big ‘gills until you’ve spent time trying to locate fish at lowlight dusk. He’s also a big believer in overcast days with a falling barometer = fish are more likely to feed all day:
> “That’s when we’ll make a long run to a known trophy lake. Other than that, it’s basically the 2 feeding windows.”
Tackle
Any light rod combo will work, the key is a bite indicator like a spring bobber or noodle rod:
> “You have to be able to see the bite, because 90% of the time, you won’t feel it with gloves on.”
Hoyer fishes 3-lb Berkley Trilene Micro Ice Mono, switching to fluoro (which sinks) in deeper water to boost the bait’s drop rate. And here’s why he says 3-lb is the deal:
> “4-lb is too thick, and 2-lb will lead to heartbreak on a hookset, guaranteed.”
Lure selection isn’t as meticulous as it can get later in the season:
> “I usually go with a 1/16-oz tungsten jig or a 1/16-oz spoon. I’ll tip it with a red Berkley PowerBait Whipworm or Mayfly, and I’ll always have a bait puck of Euro larvae on hand, too. The key is getting it down in front of their face fast when the bite is on.”
Leans towards dark colors for bluegill, including red, black and motor oil. He’s also partial to lures outfitted with a razor-sharp Berkley Fusion19 hook.
